Boza being served at the Vefa Bozacisi in Istanbul. Photograph: Alamy
If your legs are weary from following the Byzantine walls, then a short detourdown the intriguing backstreets to Vefa in Mollahüsrev Mh is just what you need. This blast-from-the-past cafe with its marbled doorstep and smoky-glass windows has been selling the iconic drink boza
since 1876. Its owner will instantly serve you a glass brimful of this unusual, thick drink, made from fermented millet topped with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas.
vefa.com.tr
lemkenny The Basilica Cistern Photograph: Alamy
This underground space is close to the much more famous Hagia Sophia. It was built in the third century AD by the Romans, one of many similar underground water storage caverns only discovered again in the 19th century by a British archaeologist.
yerebatan.com
Caroline Fawcett The ornate cafe/restaurant on the platform of Istanbul’s Sirkeci railway station. Photograph: Alamy
You can still soak up the atmosphere of travel 100 years ago by visiting Sirkeci railway station, originally the Orient Express’s eastern terminus, and its original, splendid cafe. Sip a coffee and conjure up Hercule Poirot and the stylish travellers of yesterday.
+90 212 522 2280
Tynegal Misirli Ahmet playing the darbukah in his Rhythm House, in the Fener and Balat area. Photograph: Facebook
Misirli Ahmet is a darbukah
(goblet drum) virtuoso. The mysterious interior looks part tekke (monastery of dervishes) part clubhouse (he improvises rap beats and beatbox too) with 20-30 musicians playing with him at any time. Drop in to see it for yourself.
misirli-ahmet.com
llgin Egem Yorulmaz A swimmer launches himself into the Bosphorous. Photograph: Getty Images
Join the swimmers early on Saturday mornings just under Topkapi palace, in beautiful clear blue water yet next to the passing tankers. Even if you haven’t got your trunks they’ll give a wave and a slice of watermelon.
nbritton
Big Bath (Buyuk Hamam) in the Kasimpasa area. Photograph: buyukhamam.net
Fifteen minutes’ stroll from the Beyoglu Tünel underground station is the working-class suburb of Kasimpasa and my favourite Istanbul chill-out zone – a Turkish bath simply called the Big Bath. For £20, recline, sweat and release the city dirt on the “belly button” stone plinth. Massage is optional, as is the scrubbing glove. I recommend a freshly squeezed lemon juice (sitron sulu
) with a bottle of gazoz to add zing to the chillax. Bookend your visit with a glass of Turkish tea, çay, at the tea gardens lining the entrance.
buyukhamam.net, +90 212 253 4229
charlibey Locally Istanbul offers tailored tours that reveal the more authentic side of Istanbul. Photograph: Facebook.com/locallyistanbul
Guides take you to the underground coffee houses, the little-known eateries on the Asian side, the smartly renovated buildings off the beaten track and the hippest boutiques. We learned so much about the up-and-coming designers in the city. Erk is also very knowledgeable about the political scene. The guides are smart and fascinating. They leave the historical sites to the experts but make sure you see the real city – on foot, by boat, tram, and in their car.
loc
allyistanbul.com
DavidandTom Iznik tiling at the tombs of the sultans under Hagia Sophia. Photograph: Alamy
Underneath tourist-thronged Hagia Sophia is an oasis of calm in the form of five sultans’ tombs. Each is decorated differently and there are wonderful examples of Iznik tiling. Beautiful, and free to enter too.
hagiasophia.com
ID6526322 Fishermen on the Galata Bridge. Photograph: raspu/Getty Images/Moment RM
Join the locals and meander across the Galata Bridge at sunset, watching as fishermen jostle for space to dangle their lines into the water, while seagulls circle overhead against the silhouettes of the vivid minaret- and dome-filled skyline. Then try a fresh fish sandwich from one of the gaudy floating boat restaurants that bob in the water under the shadow of the mosque.
Anna Phipps
This delightful little coffee shop is tucked away down a small alleyway off Istiklâl Caddesi in the heart of Istanbul. It serves delicious Turkish coffee (türk kahvesi
) as you sit nestled in the tiny seating area, or perch on the wall outside and peek down the alley on to the bustling main street of Istiklâl.
Olivia Gecidi 1/A, Beyoglu
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